Scotland. A Wee Winter Trip.

The statue of Earl Haig at Edinburgh Castle

6 Days in Scotland

Day 1: Arrival in Edinburgh

We began our Scottish adventure in the heart of Edinburgh at the iconic Balmoral Hotel. Nestled at the end of Princes Street, this historic hotel offers stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, the Christmas Market and the city skyline. After checking in, we started our day with a leisurely stroll around the city. We made our way to Stockbridge Market, held in a beautifully repurposed old church - this market was a haven for foodies - offering local produce, artisanal goods, and more. We could not resist the dog collars made of tartan and fashioned with bow ties.

For lunch, we headed to Makars Mash Bar on the Mound, a cozy spot specializing in hearty Scottish dishes with a modern twist. We got to pick our mash from several and then pick what we wanted on it. I had a horseradish potato mash with amazing local sauteed mushrooms with gravy. Worth the wait if there is one!  After lunch, we took a scenic walk past the enchanting Christmas markets, where festive cheer fills the air with the smell of gingerbread and the most incredible mulled wine.

Next we made a quick visit to the Scottish National Gallery - home to a collection of fine art from the Renaissance to the early 20th century. After soaking in about 45 minutes of art we immersed ourselves in the world of whisky at the Johnnie Walker Experience on Princes Street. This tour was an absolute must. By the end of it we knew so much more about how scotch was made and how we like to drink it based on a flavor profile test,  we all ended up loving it, and scotch. We took a quiz about our palate and then were shown exactly how the scotch would appeal to us. Followed by scotch cocktail tastings and an awesome visit to the gift shop as well as the rooftop bar. Could not have been a better activity. Capped off the evening by returning to the Christmas markets for a stick of salt & vinegar potatoes, marzipan and a cup of hot mulled wine as we took in the twinkling lights and festive atmosphere.

The Christmas Market on Princes Street

Day 2: Royal Edinburgh, High Tea and the Mysteries of Edinburgh's Underground

We started our day with a lavish breakfast buffet at the Balmoral Hotel, Cereals, pastries, 5 types of bread, fruit and potatoes as well as eggs made to order - setting us up for a day of exploration. Beginning with a walk through the historic Old Town, with its narrow, cobblestone streets and ancient buildings. We made it just in time for our Palace tour. We saw the prisons, the underground, walked the wall used to defend and even saw the main hall and crown jewels.  Amazing! After the tour, we continued our walk around town, taking in the rich history and stunning architecture. As the afternoon set in, we indulged in high tea at the elegant Scotsman Hotel, where we enjoyed a selection of fine teas, finger sandwiches, and decadent pastries. They catered to GF and were over the top attentive.  That said, it was very quiet - reach out if you want another option - I have 2 more lively at the ready!

After a quick change back at the Balmoral, we stepped out for an evening walk along Victoria Street, famously known as the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. This is where the Insta posts are made!!! We enjoyed a pint at The Piper's Rest, a cozy pub with a warm atmosphere and afterwards headed to Mercer cross (in a downpour) to meet Mercat tours as we delved into Edinburgh's eerie past with a haunted underground tour. The city's hidden vaults and stories of restless spirits were chillingly captivating. While we didn’t see a ghost per se we did see exactly why this town might be so, so haunting and why it stays with you. eek. For dinner we found a nearby pub and enjoyed a hearty Shepherd's Pie before heading back. Or better on you -  one more awesome pub for some music and maybe a hot toddy.

Day 3: From Heights to Spirits

Our third day began with a taste of Scotland—literally. We indulged in a breakfast featuring three kinds of smoked salmon, each more exquisite than the last. That and the coffee - energized - we embarked on a hike up Arthur's Seat and were rewarded with breathtaking views of Edinburgh. Wear sneakers and make sure you watched at least the first episode of One Day on Netflix. It totally lives up and him doing it in a tux shoe while smoking - makes not getting to the top NOT a remote possibility!

Next, we strolled to the Edinburgh Gin Distillery for a delightful tasting session and tour learning about the history and craftsmanship behind this iconic Scottish spirit. They have a tiny distillery to see how its made and an awesome cave to sit in. My personal favorite was the holiday spiced gin - maybe the way all gin should taste - but just my opinion - get 3!

Afterward, we explored the charming Dean Village, its picturesque streets were like a step back in time and enjoyed a relaxed lunch in a nearby town. This meal accidentally stole the show - The Scran & Scallie. The attention to detail, the attention to a GF allergy and the delicious meal were a complete standout. If you go to Edinburgh you must go here!!! Hands down the best meal in Scotland!!!

Although we had hoped to visit the Royal Yacht Britannia, time slipped away. Instead, we wandered along the High Street, Soaking in the historic atmosphere and stopped for Cadbury chocolate picnic bars and Flakes.. 

Dinner that evening was a magical experience at The Witchery by the Castle, where the ambiance and cuisine were nothing short of enchanting. It’s an experience steeped in gothic charm and opulence. As we stepped inside, we were immediately enveloped by the rich, atmospheric decor, the candle-lit tables, dark wood paneling, and intricate tapestries which set the stage for a truly magical evening. It was reminiscent of a grand medieval feast.

The menu featured dishes that were as artful as they are delicious, they were beautifully presented and bursting with flavor. The Witchery was more than just a meal; it was a journey into a world of indulgence and romance, set against the backdrop of Edinburgh’s historic charm.

 The night then ended even more perfectly with live local music and a final nightcap at the Balmoral Hotel.

The dining room at The Hotel Balmoral

Gleneagles

Day 4: Luxurious Escape to Gleneagles

After a leisurely breakfast, we left the city behind as a car whisked us away to the luxurious Gleneagles Resort. For the next three days, this opulent retreat would be our home. The ride out was beautiful and our driver gave us a full history lesson on the way - I will Find You!!!!!  Yes need to visit that village on my next trip.

Nestled in the serene heart of Scotland’s Perthshire countryside, Gleneagles Resort is a world-class retreat that offers an unparalleled blend of luxury, relaxation, and adventure. Seeking an action-packed getaway and a few days to unwind, this resort provided a rich tapestry of experiences.. 

After checking into our gorgeous 2 bedroom suite we took some time to explore the sprawling estate, which spans over 850 acres. Gleneagles is more than just a hotel; it’s a destination where you can fully immerse yourself in the beauty of the Scottish landscape. It is like arriving in The Crown - action.

Lunch at The Birnam Brasserie

We started our  visit with a leisurely lunch at The Birnam Brasserie. Inspired by the grand Parisian cafés, this bright and airy restaurant offered a relaxed, stylish atmosphere. Featuring a fusion of classic French dishes with a Scottish twist. The seafood selection is particularly noteworthy—think fresh oysters, Scottish mussels, and smoked salmon, all paired with fine wines or a perfectly crafted cocktail. Just one though - our afternoon was full!

One of Gleneagles’ most unique offerings and hands down its best is its falconry school, where you can engage in the ancient art of flying a trained bird of prey. Under the guidance of expert handlers, we learn what falconry is used foer and how to handle and fly these majestic creatures. I wish this was a sport I could pursue in NY. It was a thrilling experience that connected us with nature in a profound way. Our guide talked about how he and his falcon go out and hunt rabbits. Then they have locals over for rabbit stew. Please sign me up for this. I am all in. I can see my whole new life now…

Afterward, once I was able to pull myself from the fantasy ... and after a visit to all the hunting dogs (I’m 90% sure all my new friends have them), I was able to unwind at the resort’s award-winning spa. We indulged in the tranquil pool, allowing any travel (lol - that car service)  stress to melt away.

As evening fell we prepared  for an extraordinary dining experience at The Strathearn - Gleneagles’ signature restaurant. This is fine dining at its best, with a menu that showcases the finest local ingredients. The ambiance is as grand as the cuisine, with live piano music setting the tone for a truly special evening. Highlights include the champagne cart, the roast Orkney scallops, the Gleneagles beef fillet, and a selection of decadent desserts that were impossible to resist.

After dinner we headed  to The American Bar for a nightcap. This elegant, Art Deco-style bar exudeed sophistication and is known for its exceptional selection of rare spirits and expertly mixed cocktails. There was a New York Magazine like chart for placing your tastes for a cocktail and an absolutely award wining menu to match with it. That and the intimate setting maked it the perfect spot to end an awesome day of exploration.

Day 5: Adventure and Indulgence

Morning Golf or 4x4 Driving

Start your second day with one of Gleneagles’ signature activities: golf. The resort is home to three championship golf courses, each offering a different challenge and stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a novice, a round of golf at Gleneagles is a must-do. As is a visit to the pro shop - even if you don’t golf there is a sweater in there with your name on it. There is also an awesome lunch spot right there that is a must, see below.

If golf isn’t your thing, opt for the 4x4 off-road driving experience. We planned on golf but the weather refused to cooperate. Sadly we went on the 4x4 - which ended up being an incredible win.  Under the guidance of an expert instructor, we took turns navigating our land rover (QE style) through rugged terrain, mastering the art of off-road driving while taking in the breathtaking scenery. Our guide was amazing and made a revisit in the summer a must.

After a morning of adventure we headed  to The aforementioned Dormy for a well-deserved lunch. Overlooking the golf courses, this cozy, yet refined, restaurant is the ideal spot to relax and refuel. The menu featured hearty Scottish classics with a contemporary twist, such as haggis bonbons, locally sourced venison, a great hotdog and a fried fish all served with a side of warm Scottish hospitality and an amazing local ale. Also unbelievable Indian - Loved!

For an afternoon adrenaline rush, we tried your hand at clay pigeon shooting. Gleneagles’ shooting school is one of the best in the UK, offering tailored lessons for all levels. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced shooter, the thrill of hitting your target amidst the stunning backdrop of the Perthshire hills is an experience you won’t forget. It was amazing - even if I had to wear a special home made pair of glasses because i couldn’t wink adequately enough.

We ended the day with another visit to the spa and a relaxed dinner/snack at The Glendevon, a more casual dining experience. After dinner, visit the Century Bar for a final nightcap. And to play some board games while recapping the awesome past 5 days.

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Departure: A Fond Farewell

Before we departed we enjoyed one last  breakfast at The Strathearn. We caught a car to the train and enjoyed the ride directly to the airport - could not have been easier or more lovely.

I would make this a Christmas tradition and will definitely be back to see more of the Highlands the Isle of Mann and of course the birthplace of William Wallace!