Summer Cool Copenhagen.
The canals of Copenhagen
A few summers ago we definitely wanted to go to Europe but where in Europe was up for debate. Once all of the flights to France and Croatia had a stop over in Copenhagen we thought, this has to be a sign. It was a place keen on design, ahead of the curve on food, and if all people my husband Craig had met over the past 20 years in advertising were any indication, a country with some of the nicest and most interesting people you could meet. So Copenhagen it was!
We decided not only to visit the city but to rent a car and spend another 10 days outside of town visiting Odense (birthplace of Hans Christan Anderson), Arhaus (A cultural hub and European college town) and 5 amazing Swedish cities and towns. An epic road trip that will take several posts to get through.
We left NY in the evening and after a few delays we ended up in Copenhagen at about 1 in the afternoon. With cars not always so readily available and not always so fast in the city we knew the metro would be our best bet. The system which leaves right from the airport could not have been nicer or easier to use. It also left us 3 blocks from our hotel - the beautiful Kong Arthur. The location of this hotel is amazing. It is blocks from the river and a short walk to everywhere you’d want to go. You can rent bicycles, enjoy a local ingredient breakfast buffet and enjoy a free drink daily from 5-6 at ‘cozy hour’.
After a much needed nap and shower we were off to explore the Rosenborg Castle and the botanical gardens then to meet friends on Papiere Island. This was a great food hall that has since been closed however, an even better option now is Torvehallerne with over 60 unique stalls full of options.
We walked back and received a tour of Christiania the Free Town of the city. (https://www.visitcopenhagen.com/copenhagen/planning/christiania-gdk957761). It had a distinctly 70s vibe and drugs are legal here (not in the city itself). The biggest take away - no pictures allowed. Also afterwards watching the sunset at 9:45pm with fresh gelato - I couldn’t pass up mentioning.
After a much needed rest and the most delicious breakfast of local juices, breads, fruit, yogurt and pastries (and of course smoked fish) we set out without much of an agenda. Rented bikes and rode around the neighborhoods and canals. Stopped at the ultra modern swim platform set up on the canal and debated a quick dip. We also got off bikes to take a very beautiful and very scary spiral climb to the top of the Church of our Saviour Spire where the views were unparalleled. We were starving and had just made our way to the meatpacking district. We stopped at Hija de Sanchez and had incredible tacos - worth all the hype. After lunch we walked to the port and got on an afternoon sightseeing boat tour. Feeling pretty good getting to see this beautiful and thoughtfully built city by both land and by sea. We wandered back to the hotel, by way of the Lego store, before heading back over to the meatpacking district for an incredible dinner at KodByens Fiskebar we feasted on oysters from all over Europe, brill, blue mussels and hake. Amazing!!!!
Our second full day started with a train ride out to the most epic modern art museum, the Louisiana MOMA. The art, the sculpture, the grounds and the performances were incredible. We spent hours exploring and admiring the outdoors with its epic views and an amazing walk to the sea. There is a restaurant on site or the charming and delicious Gamle Humlebaek Kro was a walk away.
We caught the train back and decided to take a walk over to the lake where enjoyed a cold local beer/cider and watched swan boats. We shot home and got ready for an amazing evening at Tivoli Gardens. The park was great and it lived up to all of the “magical” “inspiration for Disney” hype. We went on several rides and had a wonderful dinner. We spent hours wandering around and enjoying the sites. We had dinner at Mikkeller Færgekroen. It was great but look before you go as the options are endless. There are full service restaurants and food stalls. Almost too many options check out the latest list here https://www.tivoli.dk/en/mad-og-drikke/spisesteder
If jet lag was not a thing there were plenty of places for a night cap on the way home - we planned on curfew which is a 5 minute walk and an amazing cocktail, but never made it.
****It should go without saying at anytime during this trip if you can get a reservation at NOMA obviously do that. Sadly during our trip it was closed. Next time :-)
Day 3 Obviously we had to start at the little mermaid! Pretty crowded and anticlimactic but over in a completely different part of the city. Kastellet the old fortress was a great visit and we also got to see an unexpected changing of the guards. Also lots of galleries and art museums all open for a visit. We had the most delicious smorgasbord with baby shrimp and another with Frickadella (a meatball-esque open face sandwich). We spent hours wandering. Visited a church in a quaint neighborhood on the canal and we walked by Juno to grab a few pastries for now and for the room. The last dinner for us is sadly no longer open. That said, I have compiled a long list of all the restaurants I want to visit next time that is always in flux based on visiting friends and NOMA off shoots. Shoot me an email for my top 5 at any time.
If we did it again I would definitely take a guided bicycle tour and would have rented a Go Boat at Islands Brygge. Not renting the boat with the picnic haunts me! That, Noma and the fried chicken restaurant Phil visited on ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ makes us returning a forgone conclusion.
